Your fear is burning your truck down because of the breaker auto-resetting and causing a program, right? Adding a fuse before the breaker will allow the breaker to operate normally. But if it’s a serious problem, like an actual short and not a temporary overcurrent, the fuse will blow and not reset.
Just put an additional fuse rated just higher than the circuit breaker inline
I do something very similar. I make cheese shells for tacos. It tastes amazing and is a great meal when I’m on keto
Meth and the tamines
Accept those that come and act to integrate them into society. They come seeing a better life and reprieve from persecution, just as the immigrants from Europe through the 1700s, 1800s, and early 1900s did.
Does it actually travel down with the quill or is it stationary? It’s obviously powered by the belts. My guess is it’s a 2nd op quill and that one is either pops out slugs that have been cut but may leave hanging Chad, or it’s simply a smaller deburrer than what’s in the main quill.
The motor will be printed with a frame number. You can match up the hp, frame number, and shaft diameter and it should work. Most old lathes came with reversible motors. Not all electric motors can be reversed.
Chances are if it’s stopping and starting then you have a bad capacitor. Here’s a link on how these motors work and what to look for to fix it https://woodgears.ca/motors/reversing.html
Yeah that’s something you’ll just have to deal with. It’s better if you have a dc welder and not a super cheap ac machine
Regarding your points:
this just requires practice.
the settings require more adjustment for sure. The voltage is set based on the wire diameter and metal temperature. Wire feed speed is set based on metal thickness. There are charts you can look up that give you good starting points for dialing the machine in.
mig should have virtually zero spatter, and what is there should just brush off. If you’re getting a lot of spatter there are three likely issues: a) voltage is set too high b) contact tip to work piece is too far c) the material is dirty, such as rust or paint, heavy mill scale, or a coating like zinc or galvanizing like on aluminized exhaust tubing
You’ll find that the more you use mig, the more you will prefer it. It’s an all around better process for home hobbiests and light fabrication.
Unfortunately, many of the problems you had with stick will follow you with flux core. Flux core as a process was intended to be more productive version of stick welding. It requires more heat than gas shielded mig to burn the flux to generate the shielding gases.
If you can swing the extra cost for a solid wire mig welder and shielding gas, you will have a much easier time with any automotive welding. You might be able to struggle through an exhaust will flux core, but it’s going to be a struggle for sure.
That’s some great looking flux core
The light from welding is orders of magnitude brighter than the sun or any led flash light you can hold to it. If it flashes at all holding it up to light then it will most likely work just fine when welding.
Rest assured that even if you try to weld with it and it DOESN’T darken, the lens still protects from the uv rays. You should not continue to weld with it if it does not darken as it will so be bright and will strain your eyesight, but it won’t cause any physical harm to you.
DineR