Recently I was reading #emacs and saw that some claim pgtk, or native wayland, is bodged and not feature complete. Is that right? If so, which is the best toolkit to compile from source with to run under XWayland?

That’s a bit of a damp squib to put it mildly.

In fairness, vscode is much better than Emacs in terms of “ease of use” for plugins and debugging. But not a patch on the overall integrated experience. LSP the big game changer that bought me back to coding in Emacs though dap is still very underwhelming.