I just changed my stock Ender 3 hotend to a Volcano to get back to a more durable printhead after wrecking my Creality Spider head and have gotten it to where I can print something monolythic (like a brick or boot dryer type thing that doesn’t have much actual detail) without much issue, but printing something with any detail, such as a character piece for DnD results in an absolute whispy disaster. I’m still trying to print stock recommended speeds and stock temperatures (PLA at 200C, PETG at 240C, etc at 50 to 75mm/s) and retract from none to 9mm trying to find something that works. Nothing does so far, even when I go to playing with temps (PETG 200-260C, PLA 180-240C) Where should I set my baseline settings to be able to get close to the CR-10 head that I started with? I originally upgraded to the Spider, which is now discontinued, because of printing ASA and the CR-10 creating a lot of jams as the bowden tube degrades inside. I have also heard good things about the Volcano and was curious about them. I’m still running the stock extruder, btw. I’m betting my problem is simply that I don’t know how to use this head yet, though I guess I could have gotten a dud.
Looks like I may be going back to an all metal hotend. I had some decent luck with a Creality Spider, though I’ve found that it isn’t in production and the choice of nozzles limited to pretty much the 04 nozzle that comes with most printers. What’s the CR-10 all metal hotend that is popular and useful and with a good variety of nozzles?
Could it be the Micro Swiss you’re thinking of? AFAIK it is ok, though a bit over priced. Personally I would stay away from the cheap clones you find on Amazon/Aliexpress/Wish as the quality can be a bit of a gamble. Other CR-10 compatible hotends that I’ve heard good things about include Phaetus Dragonfly BMS, Mellow NF Zone, Slice Copperhead. If you just want an all metal CR-10 style hotend I would get one either from Trianglelab or Mellow, who are known to have relatively good manufacturing quality. They’ve gone up quite a lot in price so they’re almost as expensive as a Micro Swiss. Best value option is probably to just buy a high quality all-metal heatbreak and reuse the cooler and heat block from the stock hotend, in case you still have those.